Fashion: Always about tomorrow

Sources Say It’s ‘Inconceivable’ That Chanel Isn’t Thinking About Karl Lagerfeld’s Succession

There are many examples of this in fashion, such as Emanuel Ungaro, which has struggled to find its footing since its founder departed. Or Gianfranco Ferré, which, though now back on its feet with designers Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, suffered an embarrassing fall 2008 season when Lars Nilsson was fired just days before the runway show. Tom Ford still talks about how miserable he was atYves St. Laurent when he took over in 1999 and the label’s founder complained that he didn’t respect his vision (Ford is not mentioned in the corporate-history section of YSL’s site, despite spending four years there).

Fear of similar situations isn’t all that keeps designers from retiring:

“Few people are able to let go … Sometimes, it is just out of vanity,” said Jean-Jacques Picart, fashion adviser to Bernard Arnault, head of the world’s biggest luxury group LVMH (LVMH.PA), referring to long-standing founding designers.

Lauren, de la Renta, and Armani won’t say a word about who could possibly replace them. If they did, their label would be associated with another name, perhaps resulting in a distasteful fame-sharing situation. Chanel offered this:

“Karl Lagerfeld is the creative director of Chanel and enjoys a long-term contract which is absolutely not put into question,” the fashion house told Reuters in an e-mailed statement. “His succession is not on the agenda.”

Lagerfeld has said he’s against retiring and plans to work forever, which may be possible since he might not be human.

However, other people close to the maison say it is inconceivable that Chanel is not thinking about his succession.

Most fashion houses have several candidates in mind for the day when their top designer leaves but they keep the name secret to prevent their potential new recruit from being poached.

We don’t like the idea of Chanel without Karl. Who wants to buy Chanel designed by some hot young thing? Not us. Not like we buy it, because we blog for a living, but still.

Tough to let go for 70-something fashion designers [Reuters]

Read more: Sources Say It’s ‘Inconceivable’ That Chanel Isn’t Thinking About Karl Lagerfeld’s Succession — The Cut http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2009/12/sources_say_its_inconceivable.html#ixzz0ZpnyCgUa

We saw all this before

 

Celine by Phoebe Philo

 

The new Phoebe Philo’ Celine collection just run the catwalk.

You can see very clearly so many different influences as: Montana, YSL, Calvin Klein and Armani.

Looks like a deja vu collection.

When Celine sold her brand years ago she supposed to stay as adviser but after few month she and her husband was invited to leave the atelier.

The same history in all the other brands.

Why instead Celine by Phoebe Philo they just  don’t do Phoebe by Phoebe Phylo.

 

Beyond the strawberry fields.

Stefano Pilati has the talent and the energy to keep YSL apart of all the other couture and head to wear houses.

His Manifesto shows that you still can be different in a world where almost everything was done already.

I want to try all this strawberries.